Method of making shoes.



J. C. MINGES.

METHQD OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED JULYIO. 1916.

Patented Dec. 12, 1916.

JOSEPH C. MINGES, 0F HIGHLAND, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR 01F ONE-FOURTH T0 FREDERICK 3'. HOCKMUTH AND ONE-FOURTH T0 .MLVIN C. MINGES.

METHUD OF MAKING SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed July 10, 1916. Serial No. 108,440.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JOSEPH C. MINGES, a citizen of the United States of America, a resident of Highland, in the county of Madison, State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Making Shoes, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification.

My invention relates to improvements in the art of making shoes, one of the objects being to provide a simple method of making shoe uppers, so as to reduce the cost of manufacturing shoes, by avoiding the expense of attaching the lining sections to the facings before securing the linings to the quarters, at the same time eliminating the loss which has heretofore been due to ill fitting linings.

Another object is to provide a' simple method of stifi'ening the uppers without adding the usual fabric stifi'eners to the shoes.

To clearly point out the advantages of my method, ll will first describe some ofthe steps involved in the usual method of making shoes.

Heretofore, the leather quarters have been formed by suitable dies and afterward sewed together in pairs before attaching the fabric linings to the leather. It is customary to form a row of stitching in each quarter at a distance from the front edge thereof corresponding approximately to the width of a side facing. These stitches, known as eyelet row stitching are merely ornamental and do not attach anything to the quarters. I attach the inner margins of the side facings to the lining and quarters, by means of the eyelet row stitching and thereby eliminate the cost of one operation, as will be hereinafter described.

In following the ordinary or usual method, the fabric lining members are assembled, stitched to the facings, and thereafter secured to the leather quarters. The usual practice is to cut a large number of fabric lining members at a single operation, by forcing a die through a pile of superimposed fabric layers. The. stretching and buckling of the fabric as the die i s f0rced through the pile produces irregularities and difl'erences in the sizes of the linings, which cause considerable difficulty in assembling the linings with the leather portions of the shoes. Heretofore, the first step in assembllng the complementary lining halves has usually consisted in connecting the lining elements to each other through the medium of an inner back stay, two rows of stitches being formed in the stay to secure the linin halves thereto. It is quite diflicult to hold the lining members and back stay in the proper relative positions during these stitching operations, but it is very important that they should be properly positioned, otherwise it will be necessary to stretch the lining on one side while it is being secured to the upper and this will spring or distort the back stay.

When the complementary lining halves are secured to the back stay, the side facings are stltched to the front edges of the lining members, and thereafter a top facing is stitched to the upper edges of said lining members. Considerable care must be exerc ised in sewing on the top facing without wrinkling or stretching either of the fabric lining members. Owing to the irregularity of the shape of the lining which should conform precisely to the shape of the upper portion of a finished shoe, a very high degree of skill is required in making the ordinary linings and the trained operators cannot assemble and attach the various elements to the lining members without making a large number of seconds. Many of such linings are applied to shoes with the result of greatly reducing the value thereof.

When the lining is completed in the usual manner by stitching the fabric members to the facings, it is ready to be attached to the leather quarters, and is placed thereon. A line of stitching is then formed along the outer edgepf one side facing, across the upper edge of the top facing and down the outer edge of the other side facing, so that the lining is secured by stitches at the outer margins of the uarters and facings. This marginal row 0 stitching is formed while the parts are laid out upon the table of a sewing machine and it will be apparent that when the lined upper is bentto form the top of the shoe there will be more or less wrinkling of the lining.

In following my method it is not neces- 1 sary to connect and assemble the irregular linings and facings before attaching. them exercise a high degree of care andskill in handling the lining. If only reasonable care is exercised, ordinary operators can readily'produce the lined quarters without wrinkling the linings, and without reducing the value of any of the shoes on account of lining defects.

Figure I is a detail view showing a lining member secured to a quarter. Fig. II is a view similar to Fig. I showing the complementary lined quarters attached to each other. Fig. III is a view showing the inside of the lined quarters after the facings and back stays have been secured thereto, one of the lining members being broken out to show a portion of one of the quarters.

In carrying out my method the quarters 1 may be cut by dies in the usual manner, and the lining members 2 may also be formed in the usual manner. The'first step in assembling the parts preferably consists in securing each lining member 2 to one ofthe quarters 1, as shown in Fig. I. These lining members are preferably secured by cementing the same throughout substantially the entire area in which they contact with the flesh side or inner side of the quarters, thereby stiffening the uppers without the use of an added fabric element and at the same time avoiding wrinkling or buckling of the lining. When a lining member 2 is attached to one of the quarters 1, as shown in Fig. I, it willconform precisely to the 1 quarter, and it will be apparent that such attachment may be made by an ordinary operator without the exercise of a high degree of skill.

After the lining members 2 have been attached to the quarters, a pair of' complementary lined quarters are placed one above the otherwith their outside faces contacting, as shown in Fig. II, and the back seam 5 is then formed preferably by stitching through the linings and quarters so as to unitethe pair of-lined quarters attheir rear edges. The lined'quartersare then'spread out, as

' illustrated in Fig. III, andthe facings 6 and 7 are attached thereto. To accomplishthis a substantially continuous line of stitching is formed at the inner and outer margins of the facings, as indicated by arrows in Fig. III. After forming the row of stitches 8 along the outer margin of the side facing G'at the left side of Fig. III, so as to attach said side facing to the outer edge of a quarter 1, the row of stitches 9 are formed to secure the upper edge of the top facing 7 to the upper edges of the quarters 1. Thereafter the row of stitches 10 are formed to attach the outer edge of the other side facing 6 to the other quarter 1. The inner row of stitches 10', 9 and 8, parallel with the rows of stitching 10, .9 and 8, pass through the inner margins of the facings, and also through the lining and quarters.

It will be noted that the stitches 8 and 10 constitute the eyelet row stitching and also serve as means for stitching the side facings to the lining and the quarters, "instead of being merely ornamental stitches. Before forming the row of stitches 9, the upperedge of the inner back stay 12 is inserted between the top facing and the lining members so that the stitches 9 will secure the upper portion of said back stay to the other elements of the shoe. Thereafter an outer back stay 13 may be applied to the outer faces of the lined quarters. Stitches 14 pass through the inner and outer back stays and also through the lining and quarters. It will be observed that in following my method it is not necessary to make the irregular lining structure which has heretofore involved considerable time and labor and which has been difficult to manipulate during the various operations. By making the lined quarters as independent units (Fig. I) each lining member will be accurately fitted to the inner face of the quarter. Theeyelet rowv stitches 8 and 10 are utilized to perform the functions of uniting the quarters, linings, and side facing. Furthermore, if the lining members 2 are cemented to the quarters, as previously described, it will be unnecessary to use the fabric stiffeners which have heretofore been. placed between the lining and quarters for the purpose of reinforcing or stiffening the latter.

I claim: a

1. The method of making shoes which comprises cutting quarters and lining members therefor, securing the lining members to the respective quarters to produce a pair of lined quarters, securing the lined quarters to each other, securing facings to the lined quarters by stitching through the linings, facings and quarters, and thereafter finishing the shoe.

2. The method of making shoes which comprises cutting quarters and lining members therefor, securing the lining members to the respective quarters to produce a air of lined quarters, each lined quarter of tiie pair being free of connection with the other lined quarter, then securing the'lined quarters to each other by stitching through the rear -margins of the quarters, securing facings to through the inner margin of the side facing and through the lining memberand quarter,

aeoams thereby forming the eyelet row stitching on the outer face of the quarter, and subsequently finishing the shoe.

4. The method of making shoes which comprises cutting quarters and lining members therefor, securing the lining members to the respective quarters to produce a pair of lined quarters, thereafter attaching the lined quarters to each other, securing a top facing to the lined quarters by stitching through the lining members, top facing and quarters after the lined quarters have been attached tpl each other, and thereafter finishing the s cc.

5. The method of making shoes which comprises cutting the quarters and lining members corresponding thereto, cementing the lining members to the res ective quarters, securing the back edges the quarters together by a row of stitching, securing side and top facings to the linings and quarters by parallel lines of stitching disposed respectively adjacent to the inner and outer edges of said facings, and subsequently finishing the shoe. I

6. The method of making shoes which comprises securing lining members to their respective quarters by cementing the same throughout substantially the entire area of their contacting faces whereby the uppers will be stiffened and wrinkling of the lining avoided, thereafter stitching the lined quarters together, and subsequently completing the shoe.

7. The method of making shoes which comprises securing lining sections to their respective quarters bycementing said lining sections directly to the inner or flesh side of the quarters, placing the grain sides or outer sides of the complementary quarters together and forming a back seam by a line of stitching passing through the lined quarters adjacent to the back edges thereof, and subsequently completing the shoe.

8. The method of making shoes which comprises securing lining members to the quarters by cementing said members directly to the inner or flesh side of the quarters, uniting the quarters by a back seam, positioning an inner back stay on the lining members symmetrically with the back seam, securing all of said parts together by parallel lines of stitching passing through the back stay lining members and quarters, and subsequently completing the shoe.

JOSEPH C. MINGES. 

